I broke my Voile Switchback bindings on my last ski trip to Frosty Mountain, so I had to go climbing instead of skiing last weekend. It turned out to be an action-packed weekend of off the couch climbing. It started off on Friday evening, when Ned and I left Vancouver after work and climbed the South Arete on the Apron, a nice easy crack between Calculus Crack, and St. Vitus Dance.
Ned enjoying the evening sun and granite on Pitch 3.
Ned and I didn’t know what to climb on Saturday, but we ended up with Sarah and followed Jeremy and friends on the first ascent of his new route, The Milk Road which is a combination of old and new pitches up the Tantalus Wall. Unlike the others (Jeremy and Kelly, Nick and Sarah) who were all great trad climbers, our slow trio consisted of Ned who hates placing gear but rather aid climb, Sarah who doesn’t like chimneys but boulders V10s, and me who is scared of falling and a wimp in general. The climbing ended up being more varied and demanding than I was hoping for but it was still a great day to be outside! It was a good way to remind myself on how to climb. See Jeremy’s writeup here and the topo for more details on the route. Go and climb it!
It must be the north facing aspect and maybe since it’s still May, but there was some serious seepage at the start of the route. We still followed the others up regardless, even though we could see a large streak coming down the crux corner pitch on Milk Run.
I ended up leading the crux corner pitch since it was my idea to climb the route without a ropegun, instead of doing something more reasonable like Angel’s Crest.
Sarah nearing the top out of this unrelenting 45m pitch.
Ned and his granite coloured outfit in the Changing Corner pitch.
Happy to be outside and only a pitch and a half from the top.
Tenuous moves after each bolt. Jeremy’s advice for somebody following, was to climb past the bolt, do the hard move, and then unclip from the bolt to save yourself from a big pendulum.
Hardmen drink root beers.
The next day, after enjoying a lazy morning, Craig and I went off to the Papoose to climb Harpin and some routes in the Bluffs.